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The Long Red Board Known Across Hawaii

by Brian Dybczak from San Diego, California in United States

 

120541Eddie AikauKhon2.com“Some become great. A few become heroes. Most fade into obscurity. Every now and then, a surfer comes along who transcends the desires, dreams and expectations of others” (Surfing A to Z). Eddie Aikau, a surfer from Hawaii, was just that, a man who pushed himself harder than other men, who had greater goals, and who wanted to achieve bigger things. Aikau grew up in Maui with his family and later moved to Oahu in 1959 at the age of 16. He was a family man and a leader, having both his brothers follow in his footsteps. Aikau cared for the people around him no matter who, when, or where he was. 9 years after he moved to Oahu, he developed the title of the first lifeguard at Waimea Bay as well as a local surfer on the insane North Shore. He became known as a risk taker and when no one else would dare to venture out, he would, to help an individual in the avalanche like waters. He would dive into waves with faces reaching up to 35 feet to make a rescue. Yet Eddie believed in being humble, and rarely ever documented his saves. Eddie’s selflessness, or concern for others more then himself was shown as he risked his life jumping into these waves hundreds of times, to save individual he didn't know. Likewise, his bravery was shown doing the same, exploring out into and riding Waimea Bay’s monstrous waves. Eddie Aikau, the big wave surfer who fell in love with the natural beauty of Hawaii, is truly a hero because of his selflessness towards others as well as his caring attitude, and bravery in the mountainous waters of Waimea Bay.
120496Eddie Aikau aboard the Hokule’a, the Polynesian voyaging canoeQuicksilver.com Eddie was known across the Islands of Hawaii for his selfless acts, placing others before himself, even when it meant risking his life, this was displayed through his involvement in his beach community. As Eddie became older, he grew close with his family and cared for all those around him. At surf competitions and as he traveled the globe he would bring people together: “Those outside the family who experienced this most included those he rode big waves with, those he competed with in the early days of professional surfing events and those people he brought together during his travels around the world in the '70s” (“The Quicksilver”). He was the crazy man that was always ready to help others in the rapid waters even when he was off duty: “With great care for the life of others, Aikau became the first lifeguard on Oahu's North Shore and saved countless swimmers from the rough waters and big surf” (“Eddie Aikau Foundation”). Throughout Eddie’s time on the north shore, he became a phenomenal surfer, but as he did so he respected and cared for his competition as if they were his brothers. He spent a lot of time with them and wanted to have fun. In addition to his family and fellow surfers, he cared for everyone met. Spending his time as a lifeguard at Waimea Bay, he demonstrated on hundreds of occasions his selfless actions, by risking his life to help others no matter what. Eddie is a deserving hero because of the care he showed for others, and his amazing accomplishment of not allowing a single person to die in the treacherous waters of Waimea Bay, during his 10 years as a lifeguard. After a sad divorce in 1978, Eddie began to get more involved and devoted more of his time into learning about Hawaii’s history. Leading to his accompany of the Polynesian voyaging crew that was to travel on the route once taken by the Polynesian migrants who first discovered Hawaii: “The Hokule'a left the Hawaiian Islands on March 16, 1978. The double-hulled voyaging canoe developed a leak in one of the hulls and later capsized in stormy weather about twelve miles south of the island of Molokai. In an attempt to get to land to save his crew and the Hokule'a, Aikau paddled toward Lanai on his surfboard” (“Eddie Aikau Foundation”). Unfortunately, his crew was later rescued but Eddie was never seen again. He would do anything to save and help the individuals around him and he didn't wish for anything in return. His selfless personality, shown through the risking of his life and humbleness, proved him to be hero. Eddie's heroic acts of selflessness and care for others weren't the only things he was known for, but also his tremendous bravery. The enormous surf was a place many people wouldn't dare to explore out into, but when someone did and no one was willing to go retrieve them, Eddie would, placing others' lives before his own.
120505Eddie Aikau, first lifeguard at Waimea BayBoardmasters.com Eddie Aikau was a man brave enough to venture out into the gargantuan waves of the North Shore. It was his playground and his work space. Eddie went aboard the Polynesian Voyaging Canoe on March 16, 1978 hoping to follow the path taken by his ancestors in the past, sadly it didn't go as planned: “The weather worsened with waves slamming against the canoe creating a leak in one of the hulls.  Eventually deep in the Molokai Channel, 12 miles off the coast of Lanai, the Hokule’a capsized.  There were no escort boats to notify officials of trouble…The crew clung to the canoe for eight hours in the dark before Eddie bravely volunteered to paddle his surfboard to Lanai for help… His daring silhouette got smaller and smaller as he rose to his knees and paddled towards the lights of Lanai, braving the choppy surf and gale force winds” (Dubiel). Eddie paddled into the rough waters and strong winds barely able to see the coast of Lanai. With nothing but his long red board and a lifevest that he later ditched. All alone, in the middle of the ocean, Eddie exhibited great amounts of bravery. It was shown consistently throughout his life and admired by family, friends, and everybody who really knew him. He should be viewed as a hero around the globe for his actions. Nine years after Eddie moved to Oahu, although he didn't have a high school diploma, was selected to be a lifeguard at Waimea Bay. Nobody else was brave or crazy enough to do the job: “With a recognized prowess as a waterman, he was appointed lifeguard of the beaches between Sunset and Haleiwa, an appropriate role for the big wave surfer as he often swam into 30 foot swells. During a nine-year tenure as protector of the hallowed coastline, he attempted over 500 rescues. Not one attempt failed” (Woodsmall). The enormous surf was a place many people wouldn't dare to explore out into, but when someone did and no one was willing to go retrieve them, Eddie would, portraying his extreme bravery. Considering his sheer amount of bravery to first of all surf the waves of Waimea Bay and go out when faces reached heights of up to 35 feet, and second of all, swim out with only his long red board and fins to save someone's life when no one else would. Eddie Aikau should be considered a hero because of this. Eddies bravery to go out into the tall mountains of water known as Waimea Bay inspired others including his brothers to follow in his footsteps. He lead by a great example and displayed a personality that should be replicated throughout the world.
120527Eddie was always holding his long red board and wearing his white board shortsSurfertoday.com Eddie Aikau, the perfect big wave surfer from Oahu, is a remarkable hero as a result of his selflessness and great bravery. Eddie wished to help all those he came in contact with. His fascinating personality Inspired many as he would paddle out into the 35 foot waves of Waimea Bay to save the life of an individual he didn't even know, risking his own. He would care for all those he met, and was sadly never seen again when he attempted to swim the 12 miles to shore in order to save his crew stranded in the ocean. In memory of his willingness to risk his life for others, Quicksilver organized a surfing competition on the shores of Waimea Bay: “One year, when the waves met the height requirement but appeared too dangerous to surf, organizers considered calling it off. Mark Foo turned to a cameraman who was capturing the surf check and said the now-revered slogan: “Eddie would go.” And they did” (Woodsmall). Eddie Aikau has inspired many people to take risks, help others, and leave their comfort zone, trying new, more challenging ordeals.
 
Works Cited
Aloha Surf Guide,
www.alohasurfguide.com/eddie-aikau-legend-lifeguard-and-young-man-who-dared
Eddie Aikau Foundation, www.eddieaikaufoundation.org/eddie.htm.
SurferToday.com, Editor at. “The Surfing Life Story of Eddie Aikau.” SurferToday,
www.surfertoday.com/surfing/8131-the-surfing-life-story-of-eddie-aikau.
“The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau 2016-2017 - Who Is Eddie? .”
Quiksilver, Quicksilver, quiksilver.com/surf/events/eddie-aikau/history.html.”
Woodsmall, Michael. “The Death of Eddie Aikau (Eddie Would Go).” The Inertia,
21 May 2014, www.theinertia.com/disruptors/the-death-of-eddie-aikau-eddie-would-go/.


Page created on 2/14/2018 7:14:31 PM

Last edited 2/17/2018 10:27:03 PM

The beliefs, viewpoints and opinions expressed in this hero submission on the website are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, viewpoints and opinions of The MY HERO Project and its staff.

Related Links

The Quicksilver: Eddie Would Go - Article about who Eddie was, a peacemaker, hero, family man, surfer, lifeguard, etc.
Eddie Aikau Foundation - A bibliography on Eddie Aikau, including the voyage he became apart of in 1976
The Inertia: The Death of Eddie Aikau - This article includes information about Eddie's traits and accomplishments as well as his inspiration to others